Disclaimer: Have a seat. This will take a minute.
A few weeks ago my Traveling Buddy and I decided to visit Costa Rica. We bought our tickets and found a place to stay on Craigslist which may have been mistake number one. Everything was planned out, we flew into the San Jose airport and had to take a seven hour bus ride to arrive in Cabuya which was a tiny village containing about 100 people. The “property” was more of a treehouse totally surrounded by jungle and howler monkeys waking me up every morning, which I had dubbed Jungle Monsters. They’re way more terrifying than their name implies. Proof:
When we arrived at the property our landlord showed us around. He explained that his brother lived in the property behind us and his parents lived next to us. It was essentially a family plot of land. The landlord then told us that his brother was “kind of crazy” and showed us the three rows of barbed wire he had installed surrounding our property to keep his brother out. I didn’t think much of it and figured he was a bit of a scrapper that got into bar fights. Possibly mistake number two. My Traveling Buddy and I hung out and kept ourselves busy for a few days with no complaints.
On Saturday we decided to head to Montezuma which was a tourist spot and see some hippies. It was the landlord’s birthday so homeboy got drunk and we didn’t see him for the rest of the night. Traveling Buddy and I made it home after catching a “taxi” and fell asleep pretty early. The following morning, Landlord’s Brother came over and said the landlord called him to come over and “fix the electricity”. I didn’t think much of it (possibly mistake number three) and Traveling Buddy helped him out by flipping a few switches and confirming everything was working a-okay. Problem was, the electricity was working fine. There were absolutely no problems. After Traveling Buddy was ordered to go downstairs twice, he figured something was awry but played along.
Landlord’s Brother “fixed the electricity” by wrapping a piece of tape over an already existing piece of tape and going back to his place. Traveling Buddy went upstairs immediately afterward and noticed that his wallet, phone and phone charger were missing. About twenty minutes later Landlord’s Brother came back and when Traveling Buddy told him what was missing, he started flailing about saying that his phone was also missing. 100% bullshit. When Traveling Buddy told him about his wallet also missing, Landlord’s Brother said it must be at his place because they hung out there the night before. Landlord’s Brother goes running back and magically returns with his wallet, although nothing was missing. Why? Because the night before, when Traveling Buddy tried to hit the ATM, it was empty so there was zero cash inside. Landlord’s Brother had no need for an empty wallet so he returned it, looking like a hero. At this point, he’s played on the tourist’s fears and knew that as long as we got the wallet back, we wouldn’t really be concerned with the phone. The wallet was most important.
A few hours passed and we decided to head to the beach. As we’re walking out, Landlord’s Brother and some friends as if they can talk to us. They have good news. His friend found the phone three days ago and will deliver it to us for $60. Also 100% bullshit. Traveling Buddy doesn’t want to accuse anybody and is maintaining composure. He tells the group that he’s not going to pay for the phone a second time and that it didn’t go missing three days ago. It disappeared this morning. I had enough. I said, “Here’s the problem: the phone was here, you showed up and it’s missing. I didn’t steal it. He didn’t steal his own phone. You were here and now it’s gone. That’s the situation.” Landlord’s Brother got angry that I had officially accused him and vehemently denied it.
Smashcut to the next morning. I’m awake entirely too early thanks to the howler monkeys. Within a few minutes, Landlord’s Brother is screaming at me to wake up Traveling Buddy. He wants to fight. He’s calling us “stupid Americans,” calling Traveling Buddy a “pussy,” telling him to “fight like a man” and then throws out the Trump Card of Fear saying, “I’LL PUT YOUR HEAD ON A STICK.” Yeah. That happened. I tell him that I’m not going to wake him up and he’s out of luck. Landlord’s Brother leaves when he realizes he’s not going to convince me to wake anyone up. Then, in standard bipolar fashion, he returns twenty minutes later and apologizes for yelling.
Later that same evening, Landlord’s Brother returns and has begun yelling at us again because he thinks Traveling Buddy and I have informed the landlord of the situation and that a police report has been filed. None of that happened. We haven’t seen the landlord for a couple of days. At the same time, the landlord walks up to us and he is angry. For seven seconds I couldn’t decipher if he was mad at us or mad at his brother. After that seven seconds he starts ripping into his brother saying that he’s garbage, doesn’t deserve to be his brother, he’s worthless, and to “get the fuck off the property”. Well okay. The landlord asks us what happened and wants every detail. We explain what has happened and he believes us. He gets increasingly livid and after an hour of talking he says, “Well, there’s only one thing to do. I’m going to beat his ass. I can’t do it now but I’ll get him. I’ll catch him on the street. Street rules. It has to be done.” Lawlessness.
A few hours pass and Traveling Buddy and I are wasting time on our gadgets downstairs when I hear some commotion next door. Gut feeling said to get out of there. I tell him that something is going down and we gather everything up that’s of any importance, including two fucking machetes (one of which was hidden behind the refrigerator) and bolt up the haphazardly put together stairs.
The situation escalates. By now Traveling Buddy and I have locked ourselves in our room with two machetes and are peeking through the wood slats to make sure nobody is coming over to murder us. He’s laying down maintaining his cool but visibly uneasy while I’m sitting in the corner emailing my boyfriend the entire story. Soon a mother is crying, a child is screaming, two men are doing something not cool, then Traveling Buddy and I hear BAM! BAM! BAM!
Oh my god. He’s beat the shit out of his brother. Street rules? Nope. Now rules? Yep.
After five minutes we hear Landlord’s Brother wailing, screaming in Spanish and running back to his place. We come out of our panic room and go downstairs when the landlord shows up. He’s shirtless, out of breath and apologizes for beating the shit out of his brother but that “it had to be done” and “it couldn’t wait”. He apologizes profusely and pleads for us to stay the rest of the week. Traveling Buddy and I head upstairs and post up in the panic room for the rest of the night, sleeping with machetes.
In the morning we decided to leave. Obvious decision. We find the landlord and tell him that we’re going to Mal Pais just to see a different part of Costa Rica and because we don’t want to get murdered. We wait for the bus and head to another beach about an hour away. Traveling Buddy and I find a hostel, pay for a few days, put our stuff down and head to a local spot to get some breakfast. We sit down and check out the menu. Traveling Buddy says, “Look outside.” I peek around the corner and who is sitting there but LANDLORD’S BROTHER and his girlfriend. An hour away. At the same spot. At the same time. My eyes start to water and I don’t know what to do. Later his girlfriend comes inside, plays nice, attempts to clear his name and tells us, awesomely, that Landlord’s Brother is being denied jobs in the village because word has spread that he’s a thief. Karma.
I was hoping that was the only time I’d have a coincidental run-in with our bipolar neighbors but we managed to see them two more times, passing by our hostel in a dark alley. So far, so good.
Tags: adventure, america, cabuya, cell phone, central america, cobano, costa rica, craigslist, danger, flight, flying, howler monkey, jungle monster, mal pais, montezuma, san jose, shit got weird, south america, steal, tico, tourist, travel



pictured: the bride and groom, in my head
pictured: left, me. right, my friend fixing everything.
all of them


pictured: Monica




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